45F by noon with fog, mist and rain. Continual rain with a brief gap in the clouds at 2pm and then Winter Storm Hera at about 2.30pm.
45F by noon with fog, mist and rain. Continual rain with a brief gap in the clouds at 2pm and then Winter Storm Hera at about 2.30pm.
There’s a part of the final metres of the ascent to Blackhead Mountain that is a vertical climb and one from which you should not look back down if you suffer the slightest vertigo or you will invite a case of the wobblies. It’s even worse now that it’s entombed in ice. My husband and dog hopped up it like mountain goats and I was left in the metaphorical dust, grappling with uncertainty, stabbing my spikes into the ice and, finally, hoisting myself up over the rocks with the roots of an aging birch tree. As I finally managed to haul myself over the top, I wondered if there was such a thing as hand crampons attached to a set of gloves because they would have made the job much easier.
34F by 10am and overcast with fog and mist, rising to 37F mid-afternoon.
25F at 8.30am and still wiith marbled skies and a hazy horizon.
20F at 8.30am with hazy cloud cover fading with the dawn.
18F by 8.30am, with clear skies and frosty air, rising to 28F by 11am.
0F at 7.30am and still, with some areas reporting as low as -11F at dawn. Clear skies to the horizon, rising to 15F by noon.
Hillsound sent me two pairs of crampons – or “spikes” – to try out and my life hasn’t been so thoroughly changed for the better since I got my juicer. They must have taken pity on me because they read that I’m hiking the Catskills 35 in a pair of fifteen-year-old snowboarding boots that I bought in an emergency, during a torrential downpour on 14th Street in New York City, when I was on my way to meet a client.
A hair over 10F at 7.30am and still with clear skies. Not much warmer by noon.
30F by 9.30am with flurries of snow mid-afternoon and a few inches of snow on the peaks.
Oh, the joy of crampons. It’s nice to muster a decent pace with a good, long stride on the Catskills trails and I’m talking about the sort of stride that confirms the saying “to stretch the legs”, which British people call going for a walk. The only way you can do that in is in the winter on long stretches of iced mud, wearing crampons or “spikes”. Most Catskills trails are rocky, and I understand when I hear about hikers who go barefoot in good weather, because it’s easy to lose your footing if it’s wet or mossy. In the autumn, when the trail is covered with leaves, it’s too easy to slip between rocks and turn an ankle, especially when you’re on your descent and tired. Crampons are inadvisable other than when it’s icy or snowing because otherwise you’ll punch up the trail. They and snowshoes both make winter hiking rather special. Hillsound make a fabulous set for a reasonable price and I wore a pair yesterday for the very first time. Hillsound had sent us two pairs to try out for free and I love them.
25F at 8.30am, cold and enigmatically overcast with snow on the higher peaks. 30F by mid-afternoon.
JN: How long have you lived in the Catskills?
BB: 44 years, I came here in August of 1971.
What brought you here?
Funny story, actually. I went to Union college in Schenectady New York and became fast friends with a fella who grew up and lived in Margaretville. He used to get the Catskill Mountain News and in those days, much of it was a local and personal column where local correspondents would call people in the community and find out just the social notes. So we sophisticated suburban kids, as I was, we would all be chuckling and having fun, “oh look, Mabel Smith had chicken dinner with so and so”, etc. So he’s telling me a story one day. We’re sophomores in college and I knew that his father was a physician, a doctor. He was telling me about an automobile accident. He said his father is best friends with a truck driver and I said, “what? Stop. What? Your father’s a doctor and his best friend is a truck driver? I’ve got to see this place”.
That was really the beginning of my fascination with the Catskills and the Margaretville area. I grew up in the suburbs of Westchester County in post-World War II prosperity years – the Eisenhower years – really before the world kind of changed in the 1960s. I grew up in the high suburbs in New Rochelle, New York. My father died when I was seven years old. My brothers were ten and eleven and my mother was a widow who had paid off the house. So we grew up in this prosperous, upscale kind of thing. She went back to work as a secretary in a school district, making $7,000 a year, raising three kids on her own, in a world where everything is kind of rarified. It was a big suburban Tudor house. It kind of gives you an outsider’s observational point of view because you’re in the middle of a whole way of life, but you don’t feel like you’re really part of it. For one thing – and this wouldn’t be true for younger people today – but I was the only kid in the class who didn’t have a father. There was no divorce. So I had that outsider perspective.
Still only 32F at 11am with flurries of morning snow that settled more thickly on the peaks and overcast skies. A seasonal start to the New Year.
34F at 9.30am, humid, overcast and bleak with brief periods of sunshine and the odd flurry of snow.
39F by 2pm, overcast, misty and dark.
Winter hiking can get dangerous pretty quickly. One minute you could be trotting along atop a magical winter wonderland and then the next minute, you might take your gloves off to take a picture and be left wondering if you’ll ever feel your hands again. Your water might freeze in your backpack at the summit of a mountain and if you’ve layered with cotton and start sweating on your ascent, you’ll stay wet for the duration of the hike. Winter hiking in the Catskills is only for the experienced or very prepared. At the very least, take spare socks, t-shirt, food and don’t wear cotton under- or base garments. Drink a liter of water before you set out and eat a hearty breakfast. Take a lighter, some pocket hand warmers and a gadget that turns snow into water. Or wait until Spring. Just stay at home and read, catch up on correspondence or binge watch quaint BBC period dramas because if I haven’t mentioned it, winter hiking in the Catskills can get serious suddenly and without warning.
31F by 10.30am and overcast with a thin blanket of overnight snow settling only on paths and roads.
30F at 10am and for most of the day, dropping to 28F by 3pm with some cloud and hazy sunshine. A dusting of snow on the peaks that melted slowly throughout the day.
Nothing beats getting stared down by a deer. “Whatcha doing?”
52F by noon, overcast, raining and miserable rising to 54F.
38F at 9am, mostly cloudy rising to 43F by 2pm.
47F at 10am rising to 52F by noon. Humid, wet and cloudy.
61F at 8.30am, humid and gloomy with foggy wafting over the mountains, but brightening up by the afternoon. 66F by 2pm.
52˚F by noon. Shimmering morning clouds turning gloomy by the afternoon. Sumac still hanging on.
Only 31F at 2pm, with most of yesterday’s snow melting, except parts that were in the shade. Clear skies all afternoon.
26F at noon with an overnight snow flurry having dusted the landscape. More gentle flurries beginning in the afternoon. 30F by 3pm.
34F at 8.30am, dull, grey and overcast.
45F at 9.30am, humid and grey with showers mid-morning. Update: 48F and raining for the rest of the afternoon.
35F at 8.30am, cloudy and humid rising to 41F by mid-afternoon.
45F at 8.30am with the sun twinkling through the gaps in the shimmering cloud.
53F at 8am, cloudy humid and warm. Almost 60F by noon: t-shirt weather.
54F at 10am, mild and warm all day with hazy fog hanging over the mountains and multifarious cloud cover.
54F by 1pm, balmy and overcast.
52F at 2pm with a mixture of cloud and the occasional twinkle of sun.
40F at 8.30am and partially cloudy.
38F and cloudy by noon.
28F by 8am with mixture of sun and clouds. Mostly cloudy by the afternoon.
The trouble with hiking the Catskills in the autumn is that thick layers of fallen leaves completely cover the path. It’s easy to lose your footing and stumble, as your boot disappears up to the ankle into the crunchy leaves, especially when the ground underneath is rocky or slippery. The hike to Plateau Mountain from Mink Hollow Road on the Route 212 end, is rocky, pebbly and everything in between. It’s also wet, wet, wet; with several knee-deep river crossings on the first 2.6 miles, and frequent muddy pools, so if you feel like hiking it now, take your waterproof boots. One river crossing necessitated the aid of two large trees that were downed halfway across the water. All the clumsy, ankle-turning stumbling that’s met with enthusiasm on the way up becomes quite tiresome – and downright dangerous – on the way back to the car when you’re exhausted.
If it sounds like a big pain in the backside, this would be the point to mention that it’s utterly gorgeous: a smorgasbord of beautiful Catskills landscapes in a 7.3 mile round trip, featuring thick, white birch trees mixed with soft evergreens, falling waters, mossy boulders, a spring and a lean-to complete with outdoor privvy.
31F at 8.30am with brilliant sunshine in clear skies and a hazy horizon rising to 42F by 1pm.
29F by 8.30am with a frost burning off in the clear skies. 47F by mid-afternoon.
A clear, cloudless day and a balmy 44F by 3pm.
A morning layer of overnight snow had melted by by mid-afternoon. Overcast and 40F by 3pm.
35F at 8.30am and overcast with snow flurries beginning mid-morning, taking break for lunch and then continuing throughout the afternoon.
Local Catskills’ artist Alix Travis invites everyone to pop into her new winter studio in Margaretville for a cup of tea and to watch her work. In the gallery you can view her latest exhibition entitled “Family Friends Celebration and Holiday Colors”, which consists of gorgeous works of oil on canvas, watercolor and collage on the subject of relationships, warmth, brilliant color and the shared values of the holiday season and all year round
the Commons Gallery, the Commons, 785 Main Street, Margaretville, NY; December 3, 2015 through March 31, 2016. Open Saturdays from noon – 4pm, and any day when you see the lights on.
47F at 8am and gloomily overcast with layers of fog cloaking the mountains, and rain.
35F at 9am with steady rain melting overnight icy patches and fog smothering the mountains.
25F at 8.30am and bitter, with the landscape coated in a layer of grey frost evaporating in the sun. Clear skies save for a distant cloud of fog hugging a far off mountain. 34F by noon.
41F by 9am and frosty, with thick, rolling fog hugging the mountains. Clear skies at dusk.
46F by 10.30am and cloudy with showers.
56F by 2.30pm and warm with an enigmatic mix of sun and cloud.
40F at 10.30am and overcast, rising to 48F by 2.30pm.
38F at 8.30am, with clear skies except for a thick layer of frost evaporating off the mountains in the strong, morning sun.
24F at 8.30am and bright despite clouds, rising to 38F by 2.45pm.